Advice: cable splitters

[Rich]

I'm on Times Warner cable for both my internet and basic cable TV. Pretty basic hookup with a "in the wall" splitter so as to have two cable outlets to serve two rooms. Nothing is connected to the bedroom outlet. In the livingroom, the cable is connected to a external two way splitter, one output to my VHS/DVD recorder (from there to the TV) and the other output to my Motorola Surfboard cable modem. Pretty vanilla, right?

Except, I have had to replace my external cable splitter about 5 times this year. And I have had frequent issues where I have found myself unable to connect to anyone on-line until I have removed and re-installed the splitter cable connection to the modem. So far I have had to replace a Times Warner three way splitter, a Times Warner two way splitter, and three Radio Shack two way splitters. I am on my fourth (and last) Radio Shack splitter now.

The infrastructure in this area dates from 1960-1980 and my guess is there is a lot of signal reflection. Dial up is worse as 56K modems only work at half speed.

I'm using pretty standard cables with screw-on f-connectors at both ends and the center conductor fitting into the female receptacle.

When this splitter goes, my next step will probably be to move my cable modem into the bedroom and hook it up to the wall receptacle there, getting rid of the external spitter and one whole length of cable. Control won't be a problem as I'm using wi-fi between the router and the modem

Can anyone recommend a splitter that can handle two-way traffic, or is that not the problem?

[Yogimus]

Call your cable company for recommendations, their techs are surprisingly honest.

[HTRN]

RG-6 loses something like 5.5db per 100 feet. The commonly used for broadband RG-59 loses nearly 10. Splitters lose 3.5 db for 2 way splitters. So you're down 7db from that alone. Ideally you'll want the line coming in, to be on a signal amp, with the Cable gateway as close as possible, running Category wire the rest of the way.

[mekender]

RG-6 loses something like 5.5db per 100 feet. The commonly used for broadband loses nearly 10. Splitters lose 3.5 db for 2 way splitters. So you're down 7db from that alone. Ideally you'll want the line coming in, to be on a signal amp, with the Cable gateway as close as possible, running Category wire the rest of the way.

Also, if you're getting progressive degredation; you've got a different problem somewhere. The most common problem is a degrading ground due to corrosion.

When I installed for TWC, we used RG60 excusively unless we needed to go up to RG-11 for really long runs.

If you are having this many problems one of two things is likely happening. Either you have a power source of some kind that is causing too much power on the line and thus killing the switches. Or, more likely, you have a bad connector somewhere causing all of your problems by shorting out. I suppose it could be a bad tap but that would usually manifest in multiple people having the problem, usually at least 4 to 8. Unless it is a bad port on the tap which is easy enough to fix, the tech just moves the line to another port if one is available.

Me, I would have TWC come out and do a reinstall, they should do it free if you have had 2 or 3 service calls for the same problem. That will have them replacing the drop, the lines in the wall and the lines in your house. If the tech balks at that on the phone, ask for a supervisor. Depending on the attitude of the person you are talking to, I would inquire about a refund as well... The more you call, the more you get in refunds. If I took your call when I was working for TWC, that is what I would have done, scheduled you for a reinstall plus given you credit for a month's service. But... if you dont call, it is not documented as a problem and you dont get as much leverage.

If you are living in an apartment or other leased dwelling, you may have no choice and be stuck with the wiring in the walls as TWC cannot legally replace those.

[HTRN]

I always get the two confused - the thin stuff is RG-59, the thick stuff is RG-6(which is what I think is required to run between FiOS's ONT and their MoCa router).

The really heavy stuff is RG-11 - that looses the least at around 3.5db/100foot, but it's a very stiff and a pain to snake through walls.

[mekender]

I always get the two confused - the thin stuff is RG-59, the thick stuff is RG-6(which is what I think is required to run between FiOS's ONT and their MoCa router).

The really heavy stuff is RG-11 - that looses the least at around 3.5db/100foot, but it's a very stiff and a pain to snake through walls.

The difference between 59 and 60 is the diameter of the "stinger" core of copper. The 59 is much thinner. It was used almost exclusively in new homes till about the mid 1980s or so.

[Denis]

The really heavy stuff is RG-11 - that looses the least at around 3.5db/100foot, but it's a very stiff and a pain to snake through walls.

Discovered that last week when trying to pull eight strands through a buried conduit with an S-bend in it. No dice. Now I need to get a backhoe and dig a straight trench instead... meh.

[mekender]

The really heavy stuff is RG-11 - that looses the least at around 3.5db/100foot, but it's a very stiff and a pain to snake through walls.

Discovered that last week when trying to pull eight strands through a buried conduit with an S-bend in it. No dice. Now I need to get a backhoe and dig a straight trench instead... meh.

Yea it is, I used to only deal with 300-500ft runs and that was enough for me.

[HTRN]

I think the only time you really see in residences these days is in long buried runs to supply the house with either a cable or sat signal.

[Denis]

I think the only time you really see in residences these days is in long buried runs to supply the house with either a cable or sat signal.

Got it in one. Our dish has to be across the garden from the house in order to get a good angle onto the satellites we want.