Vz-58 build, a work in progress

[FelixEstrella]

Step 4a -- when correct interference fit is achieved, pound barrel into receiver about 1/4" using a mallet and correctly time the barrel -- I used a length of fishing string from front sight post to rear of receiver, passing thru rear sight, and visually aligning. Care must be take to make sure that the gas block and receiver are aligned correctly so piston doesn't bind. If after timing/aligning the front sight the gas block isn't correctly aligned to allow non-binding movement of the piston, you may have to re-time the front sight relative to the barrel ... not impossible but not a trivial operation either.

Pressing the barrel into the receiver seemed easiest if I hold the barrel in a barrel vice and then push down on the receiver from the top. The back of the receiver has a slope, so a stack of pennies was used to achieve horizontal alignment between the press arbor and the back of the receiver. Press down, continually checking and rechecking barrel timing and readjusting as necessary, until the barrel is about 1/2" from bottoming out.

[FelixEstrella]

Step 4b -- "load" a 7.62x39 GO gauge into the bolt, insert into bolt carrier and insert into receiver. Move the bolt carrier assembly all the way forward (under gravity now) making sure the bolt completely locks against the locking logs. Now, continue pressing the barrel into the receiver until the barrel "bottoms out" against the GO gauge. At this point make sure the bolt tightly closes (a little force is fine) against the GO gauge. Verify it doesn't close against a NOGO gauge.

[Denis]

Wow. That all sounds pretty involved... which makes me rather glad I can just go to the gunshop and buy a complete factory-new one - no silly rules about evil imports. Love your posts, though!

It's no wonder you don't have space for a lathe - your garage is full of sandblasting gear.

ETA: is that receiver in the white?

[FelixEstrella]

Step 4c -- Add striker, bolt carrier cover, and recoil/striker springs and close the whole thing. Verify correct movement of bolt and lockup. Also verify that piston moves without binding and that it goes no further forward than what's allowed by the piston stop.

[FelixEstrella]

Wow. That all sounds pretty involved... which makes me rather glad I can just go to the gunshop and buy a complete factory-new one - no silly rules about evil imports. Love your posts, though!

Yes, it's easily the most involved build I've done to date. Way more complicated than a FAL.

It's no wonder you don't have space for a lathe - your garage is full of sandblasting gear.

And my wife insists on parking her car in "my" garage. What's up with that?

ETA: is that receiver in the white?

It's lightly parked.

[Denis]

Yes, it's easily the most involved build I've done to date. Way more complicated than a FAL.

I have GunPlumber's FAL build notes. Did you find something similar for the Vz, or just work it out as you went along?

And my wife insists on parking her car in "my" garage. What's up with that?

I cured that problem some time ago. I put some "essential" items in the car spot, and haven't had time to move them away yet. In the meantime, she got used to finding the car outdoors.

[FelixEstrella]

I have GunPlumber's FAL build notes. Did you find something similar for the Vz, or just work it out as you went along?

There're several writeups I found on the intarwebs .... some good, some not so good.

http://www.calguns.org/forum/index.php?topic=270.0
http://www.projectguns.com/vz581.html
http://www.autochart.com/vz58.htm
http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Building+ ... 0204318792

[FelixEstrella]

Step 4d -- Pin the barrel. The ORF receiver comes with a countersunk index mark for the barrel pin. The pin I bought from Czechpoint-usa is 4mm in diameter. I pre-drilled the hole with a #26 (0.147") drill bit and then finish-reamed with a 4mm reamer bit.

[FelixEstrella]

Step 5 -- And now for the rivets. There are two rivets. The forward one fixes the trigger guard and the rear one serves the dual purpose of securing the trigger guard and providing an anchor for the leaf spring.

The rear rivet has a 4mm head and a 1.5mm shank. The head must not be deformed (much) allowing the leaf spring to slip over it.

[FelixEstrella]

The rear rivet shank will be flattened against the trigger guard using my trusty 12 ton press. The support for the head will be a simple 1/2" bolt with a nut screwed on to the same depth as rivet head is tall.