Jeep SJ, XJ, or GM k5 project truck? Others maybe?

[Netpackrat]

I'm trying to convince her to go for something lower maintenance however. Bedliner over matte powdercoat, and black instead of red maybe... Or Black with bolted on diamond plate...

The bumpers, rack, and side guards on my Jeep are all Herculiner over POR-15. I'd prefer just black powdercoat, but the bedliner resists rock chips better than anything else I have seen. Since Alaska is ground zero for rust, resisting rock chips is paramount. Not sure where Idaho falls on the rust continuum, but you definitely need to take into account that you are not in Arizona anymore. I started out with just paint on the front bumper, and factory powder coat on the rear bumper and side guards. After just a few years they were rusted all to hell, and I had to re-sandblast ang apply the present treatment. It's been on there for several years now, and is holding up okay so far. Just waiting on decent conditions for sandblasting now on the new rear.

[NVGdude]

half the roads around hear are chip dust and oil paved.

Dang, they pave the roads up there? And here the rest of us are stuck back in AZ with nothing but dirt roads to drive on.

[TheIrishman]

From the original post

The fullsize Broncos are great trucks, but they have major front suspension issues. If we were going to run one, we'd have to swap out the TTB front suspension for a true solid axle. It's still a possibility, especially given the engine, tranny, transfer case, and axle options available to the machine; and that you could still get a removable hard top all the way until '96... but lets just say it's moved off the "short list".

Too bad you're as far away as you are, as I heard a few days ago a friend is selling his '95 Bronco. Last I looked it had about 90k on a well maintained 5.0 with a new clutch and throwout bearing. U-joints were just replaced as well as the tie rods and draglink. Even has a new set of 35's with almost no miles on them. Did I mention it sits on a set of 1 Ton Dana's (kingpin front) and HAS NEVER BEEN OFF ROAD?
The original owner worked at a local 4X4 shop and tore it down the first week he owned it. Everything was done right, including only installing the front driveshaft when it snowed as an excuse not to take it offroad. Even then it was rarely driven in the snow. No typical 1/4 panel rot, no dents(a few minor dings and scratches). Heard he was asking 5k.
I've known all three owners of this truck and it was babied. I even drove it for a few days while one was out of town. After half an hour you forget it's as tall as it is(until you go to get out and drop several feet).

[Jered]

How about this?

[Nicodemus]

The XJ is great, but a bit small on the interior and I don't think you would be comfortable in one.

I used to own one (a 2 door cherokee sport). It's a BIT small, but it's not that bad.

If you are okay with the size, then I would go with the XJ. They are everywhere, parts are everywhere. Major weakness is the model 35 rear axle, unless you are fortunate enough to get one with the factory tow package that included a Dana 44 axle. You can probably swap in the Ford 8.8 out of an exploder, but that will most likely require cutting/welding for new spring perches and shock mounts. If your XJ has ABS, it WILL have the wimpy 35 axle, and if you want to retain the ABS it is possible to have a D44 built with the ABS sensors that can use your stock rear brakes.

I would go with the XJ, it has everything you are looking for and with what you want to do to it, it will end up a beast off road. I regret selling mine everyday.

+1 on the Dana 44 but if you can't find one with the tow package you can get one with the 29 spline chyrsler 8.25. It is tough, not quite as tough as the 44 but people have done v8 conversions keeping the 8.25 in with no problems.

Since it sounds like you want more power than the I6 gives just re-gear it. I don't know if your planning on putting lockers in but if you are your going to have the rear end apart anyway just re-gear it while your back there.

XJ's have great off road performance, a strong transfer case that can handle way more power than they ever came with and parts are everywhere.

[HTRN]

Personally, I'd go with a K5, simply because the drivetrain is damn near as common as dirt. I won't even mention the fact that you can buy the Military version(with better axles to boot!) for what amounts to beer money from Gov liquidation.

Forget aluminum, it really has no give in it. And oh, alot of it can be done with MIG, you just have to use a spool gun.

CroMo? Yeah, maybe if I was building a racecar, but only if it was making me money. or was mandatory because of class requirements. It's much more expensive than the typical Mild steel tubing, you need a TIG to weld it properly, and best of all, the stuff is like aluminum in that it prefers to break welds than distort. All this for a minor weight savings.

Stainless for bumpers? For the love of.. WHY?! Have any of you priced Stainless vs. Mild steel? Once again, Mild steel works wonders, and like others have mentioned, if you need "shiny" get it powdercoated chrome.


HTRN

[blackeagle603]

Besides the K5 has useful cargo area for your "lap dog."

[merll2005]

Personally, I'd go with a K5, simply because the drivetrain is damn near as common as dirt. I won't even mention the fact that you can buy the Military version(with better axles to boot!) for what amounts to beer money from Gov liquidation.

Is it possible to register such a vehicle? I thought the feds changed procedures years ago to prevent people from doing that?

[Cobar]

Besides the K5 has useful cargo area for your "lap dog."

[HTRN]

Is it possible to register such a vehicle? I thought the feds changed procedures years ago to prevent people from doing that?

You're talking about an SF97, which they had stopped issuing, but it created an uproar. AFAIK, they're issuing them again.


HTRN