The Gun Counter

Based of searching on here and round the Net, seems like I have several options to coat an aluminum lower;

Lowes/Home Depot Hi Temp/Exhaust paint - Probably not durable

Durakote/Cerakote/KG - Finicky mixing methods, needs specialized equipment, etc

Anodizing - Needs electrical equipment, chemicals, etc..

What would be the easiest, relatively inexpensive process that's straightforward and doesn't require a homemade spraying booth, but can produce a coating with a workable degree of wear resistance?

Is it a "shooter" that is going to be used and abused? If so, degrease it and rattle-can it.

One step up from Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. seems to be this stuff: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/Search/Pr ... x?pid=1117 I've never used it, so I don't know if it is worth the extra $$. It does get decent reviews.

rightisright wrote:Is it a "shooter" that is going to be used and abused? If so, degrease it and rattle-can it.

One step up from Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. seems to be this stuff: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/Search/Pr ... x?pid=1117 I've never used it, so I don't know if it is worth the extra $$. It does get decent reviews.

It'll be a shooter, probably spend a lot of time in the display cabinet. I have its "older brother" (my first build) serving duty for HD. Won't be crawling through gravel or anything (if I was I probably wouldn't be worrying about the finish) but I don't want it to peel when I look at it askance.

Druacoat now has an all-in-one can: https://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm ... ry_id=1065

Downsides: It ain't cheap and only has a 48 hour shelf-life once activated.

Might be a good idea if you are doing more than one gun at a time.

That looks interesting, and the price isn't too bad, considering. I'd probably collect a few units, then do them all together at once.

When my wife took an AR-15 builder's class, the guy recommended using Krylon topped with the flat clear coat designed for tire rims over Duracoat.

I've seen home anodizing setups use 12v car battery chargers, that will prevent wear damage regardless of how bad your die job looks.

KG Gun Kote hands down. Our very own Fast Rope is an expert in its use - let's see if he chimes in.

Chime!

I use gunkote and only gunkote on the guns I coat. there are advantages to all of them, but cost to performance gunkote wins every time. The only downside is that applying to furniture is riskier as some furniture will warp, shrink, deform at the temps needed to cure it. Don't use their stock kote, air cure, no bake stuff. It is shit to work with and god help you if you make a mistake, it is HELL to remove. Their 2400 series stuff is good.

for less than $20 you can get any color of Gunkote. Prep would be the same for any coating you actually want to stick. You can bake it in your oven and the smell is tolerable and dissipates quickly.

I personally like using flat dark earth for a base color.with an FDE base, you get all of the protection, it might as well be black at night. It also means you can use any rattle can color you want, then as the seasons/ tastes change you can remove it (rattle can paint) with acetone and change your colors/ spots as desired without having to tear down and prep the whole gun every time, just degrease and go!

some things you'll want...

1. Brake cleaner, or enough acetone to soak your parts (or both)
2. an abrasive blaster with 100-120grit aluminum oxide blast media (garnet will work fine too. I don't recommend play sand, as it has lots of round fascia and will dimple the surface like a golf ball, vs, roughing the surface. when you blast the aluminum, only do enough to give texture and eliminates all the shiny areas (that is the sealant of the anodizing), you don't need (or want) to blast it to white metal.
3. ear plugs (to plug the chamber and muzzle (remove before baking))
4. an air brush and air supply (compressor or canned). you can use an automotive detail brush but it's tricky to get into the small places without flooding the areas around it, and keeping a matte look if desired is much harder.

Alternately, you can just send it to me and I can do it for you. http://www.pulltabdesigns.com

I'm trying to avoid building a stripping/painting station, so Gunkote would be out. I don't have the money or space for blasting cabinets, spraying areas, etc. Unless you can clean it, spray it and bake it, then it's a no go, unfortunately.