270 from 30-06 brass

[blackeagle603]

Never done this before. Any flashes of the obvious from more experienced hands before I jump in w/ both feet?

Need cases for firing Tubbs Final Finish bullets through my 270. Don't want to waste my good 270 brass on it. It can leave polishing grit in the case neck so I'll just fire once some popper loads through the barrel and dispose of brass after. I have a bunch of old -06 brass sitting so thinking that's the route to go.

[SeekHer]

Having never used the product; does it say, specifically, not to reuse the case after firing the compound out of it? If not then just reuse the case…

The fire forming method you describe is OK but don’t you have a re-sizing die for your .30/06 brass to make it .270, you should as you can then pick up used brass and make your own .270 fodder…

I don't but then again I only have one .30/06 sibling in a .25/06, which has been demoted to 4th or 5th choice for hunting now and first choice goes to my .257 Roberts...HTRN’s suggestion of the .338/06 was undertaken by of the my shooting buddies on an old action that I had and he likes it very much...took a coyote at exactly 600 yards--it was urinating on the target stand--and that took the place of his .35 Whelan as a moose gun...

[mousegun]

Be sure to lube well! As the 270 has a longer neck than the 06, you will no doubt run into more resistance for the last part of the reform. Check the neck thickness when you are done to make sure you aren't too thick. If you are, you will need to turn the neck to thin it into tolerance.

[blackeagle603]

Yes, I'd planned on lubing well with a traditional paste wax type sizing lube then running through my 270 sizing die and trimming. Going from 30 down to 270 for a low pressure load should I consider turning the neck after?

Yes, it is recommended that you don't reuse the brass. As a result I wasn't planning to anneal these cases. Is the risk of splitting that much of a concern on one reload of cases necked down from .270 to .30?

[mousegun]

Going from 30 down to 270 for a low pressure load should I consider turning the neck after?

Measure the thickness first shouldn't be much more than .02. Figure once fired 3006 brass will give you a good wall thickness for a maximum. If you start with thicker brass (mil spec), you could end up with a neck that is too tight and won't release the bullet easily. That would drive your pressures up...sometimes quite dramatically. If the neck is too thick, you won't be able to chamber the round...although I kind of doubt you will hit that wall going to a 27 bore. If you find chambering to be tough for the last 1/4 inch or so, that is an indication that you have an issue.

[HTRN]

Uhm, you guys do know that -06 brass is shorter than .270 brass?

And considering a box of twenty is like $10, I think you're crazy to do so.


HTRN

[blackeagle603]

I think you're crazy to do so.

Crazy? You say that like it's a BAD thing.

Sure I can buy 270 brass. How much more fun is this approach tho'? Never had to neck down before. I figured working up a batch of (disposable) brass for Final Finish 270 loads was as good a chance to do a Jr High science project as any.

[mousegun]

Uhm, you guys do know that -06 brass is shorter than .270 brass?

And considering a box of twenty is like $10, I think you're crazy to do so.


HTRN

Yes I do. The extra length originally came from the necking down process. The original wildcat was never trimmed down to original length. Convential wisdom held (and for some still holds) that the neck length had to be a minimum of one caliber length for proper hold and so the bullet base would not encroach on available powder space. Lengths longer like 1 1/2 caliber were considered better. That is why you see in some writings that the 300 Win Mag has a " short neck" and in some other calibers that the bullet uses availalbe powder space. If the 30-06 brass is within length spec. when Eagle necks it down, his 270 should likewise be within spec. as far as overall length goes.