The Gun Counter

During my yute-ful days with recurves and long bow we never paid any mind to all the variables in arrow selection discussed now: shaft material, grams, spine various fletching options. Of course we never had any concern with fletching interacting with hardware, rests and such on the bow. We just went to the Yardbirds store (long gone -- doomed by KMart and Walmart) and bought whatever arrows they had in the barrel in their sporting goods section.

So last winter I was given an old Browning compound circa 1990-95. Still haven't shot it but reckon I should get some arrows and see what it'll do. The lot's clear and level and I can get a backstop up any time now.

Using my fish scale it looks like it takes 52# to draw and then lets off to 28# to hold at full draw.

I did some google-fu reading on draw length and it's just right for me (29"). It's the whole business of arrow selection that made my eyes cross. I need to just settle my mind and dig in deeper but if there's a short course or tips on arrow selection from all ya'll it'd be appreciated.

Alas, I can't help you much. All I know about arrows is that the pointy end should face away from you...

A non-branded guide to general arrow selection process

http://www.huntingnet.com/staticpages/s ... aspx?id=15

How to pick within a brand
http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/shaft-selector?

or

http://www.goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=chart

hope that is helpful

Denis wrote:Alas, I can't help you much. All I know about arrows is that the pointy end should face away from you...

You say that like you learned a lesson the hard way.

Fivetoes wrote:

Denis wrote:Alas, I can't help you much. All I know about arrows is that the pointy end should face away from you...

You say that like you learned a lesson the hard way.

Is there any other way to learn a lesson...? That reminds me of my school classmate who had to learn the hard way why the PE teacher forbade us from running to retrieve javelins.

1) You pay for performance. Expect heart attack prices for the latest bleeding edge graphite arrows.
2)You will mangle and lose arrows. Even when I did Archery regularly, I'd occasionally destroy one/lose it.
2)A good idea is to get an overdraw shelf. Shorter arrows are stiffer and lighter, and have a better effective range.
3)Easton Blues are 30 bucks a dozen. As are the Easton Jazz. Both are economy priced Target arrows

Thanks for the links. I've got some reading to do.

HT,
Yeah, the price points on arrow already have me salivating about the possibility of building my own up. I see the Camofire deals on nocked arrows needing cut and fletched and I think "Oh goodie, another craft/reloading type activitity and tools to acquire."

I shot an arrow into the air, it fell to Earth I know not where.



I lose more damn arrows that way.

I'd really like to help, but my hunting arrows (and some of my target arrows) are Douglas Fir, with turkey feather fletching. Probably not what you're looking for. (But they work GREAT from a 60# longbow!)

Denis wrote:

Fivetoes wrote:

Denis wrote:Alas, I can't help you much. All I know about arrows is that the pointy end should face away from you...

You say that like you learned a lesson the hard way.

Is there any other way to learn a lesson...? That reminds me of my school classmate who had to learn the hard way why the PE teacher forbade us from running to retrieve javelins.

"There are two kinds of people in the world--those who learn from other peoples' mistakes, and those other people."