Does not follow...

[g-man]

Cost $75 to start the Motorcycle on Friday (AFTER work because I didn't get to ride in). LiFePO4 battery was D.E.A.D. Dead. Like 3 of the 4 cells failed and it read 3 volts when I got it out. Went with an AGM replacement. No longer saving the 6.5lbs I was by switching to the lithium iron battery. However, since I'm also not hauling around about 27lbs of my own fat ass anymore, I think I've covered the spread there.

[Netpackrat]

http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/opin ... olumn.html

[Weetabix]

It's a good thing for me that I don't assemble Anderson power pole assemblies for a living. They get there but not quickly.

I've found a good pair so task specific crimpers do wonders on speeding up the process. I use these

I actually have a pair that look almost exactly like that. My problem is getting the length stripped just right so I don't see shiny copper sticking out and so it touches the end of the lead. I generally strip it too long, try to cut some off, get the two ends uneven, then start over again.

This time, I was using the maximum wire size for the 30 amp connectors, so the trimming was making the wire not fit in the connector. Ah, well.

Fortunately, I know to cut the wire a little longer than I actually need. My motto is, "Measure long because I know I'll cut twice."

[randy]

It's a good thing for me that I don't assemble Anderson power pole assemblies for a living. They get there but not quickly.

I've found a good pair so task specific crimpers do wonders on speeding up the process. I use these

My problem is getting the length stripped just right so I don't see shiny copper sticking out and so it touches the end of the lead. I generally strip it too long, try to cut some off, get the two ends uneven, then start over again.

A lot it is practice. If I have time I lay the end of the wire against the terminal and mark the end of the terminal on the wire. I find that I get better control of stripping just the insulation on 16 or 18 gauge using nail clippers.

[Odahi]

My '04 Tacoma started having an issue a couple of months ago. The 4WD wouldn't engage. No indicator light, no actual 4WD, no nothing. Due to extreme poverty, I had to let it stay that way. The truck still runs fine, gets good mileage, no other problems. Since winter weather has started, I thought I'd better get it fixed, but still I'm with the no money thing. About a week ago, I engaged the system again, still no light, no 4WD. I thought what the hell, it never gets used, and I had been forgetting to exercise the system for a while. So, I decided to leave it engaged, and just drive it. Maybe something would heat up enough, or vibrate enough, that it would start working again. The actuator on the front diff is semi-notorious for going bad. So this morning, I did some research, looking for troubleshooting tips and the replacement procedure, and sourcing for parts. The actuator is about $700 at the dealer, from the forum posts I read, plus installation. The part ranges from $170 to about $300 online, plus my installation time and effort. So, when I left work today, I grabbed the flashlight from the console, and started to look for access and location of parts to replace the actuator. About what I'd figured, skid plate has to come out, then it's the contortionist octopus job to get the actuator freed up and removed. Sigh. I don't WANT to crawl around on the cold ground. So I roll out from under the truck, get behind the wheel, and fire her up. The 4WD light came on. I disengaged the switch, it went off. Turned it on and off again, it turned the light on and off. So I cautiously moved around the parking lot a bit, the 4WD is working like new. I'll. Be. Damned. It healed itself! I don't have any illusions, it probably won't stay fixed, but that is such a rare thing it still has me grinning, two hours later. If it just lasts until the weather gets nice, I'll be amazed, and very grateful. You don't expect that kind of luck, it's so rare, especially with mechanical things, but it sure made my day.

[Cobar]

Glad yours is working for now. My transfer case grenaded so no-go until I get a new one in there.

[Weetabix]

A lot it is practice. If I have time I lay the end of the wire against the terminal and mark the end of the terminal on the wire. I find that I get better control of stripping just the insulation on 16 or 18 gauge using nail clippers.

I'll try that. I'd probably be faster if I did more than 1/year.

[Odahi]

I use these strippers, they work well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-45-171-Cus ... tripmaster
For cutters, I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lindstrom-8142-8 ... strom+8142
Practice will help, too, but it's hard to do a superior job with inferior tools.
I won't use these stripper/crimper tools, they aren't good for anything but checking screw sizes and thread pitch, if that:
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-T ... +strippers
They are a poor substitute for a good tool.
/wire monkey mode off

[evan price]

My '04 Tacoma started having an issue a couple of months ago. The 4WD wouldn't engage. No indicator light, no actual 4WD, no nothing. Due to extreme poverty, I had to let it stay that way. The truck still runs fine, gets good mileage, no other problems. Since winter weather has started, I thought I'd better get it fixed, but still I'm with the no money thing. About a week ago, I engaged the system again, still no light, no 4WD. I thought what the hell, it never gets used, and I had been forgetting to exercise the system for a while. So, I decided to leave it engaged, and just drive it. Maybe something would heat up enough, or vibrate enough, that it would start working again. The actuator on the front diff is semi-notorious for going bad. So this morning, I did some research, looking for troubleshooting tips and the replacement procedure, and sourcing for parts. The actuator is about $700 at the dealer, from the forum posts I read, plus installation. The part ranges from $170 to about $300 online, plus my installation time and effort. So, when I left work today, I grabbed the flashlight from the console, and started to look for access and location of parts to replace the actuator. About what I'd figured, skid plate has to come out, then it's the contortionist octopus job to get the actuator freed up and removed. Sigh. I don't WANT to crawl around on the cold ground. So I roll out from under the truck, get behind the wheel, and fire her up. The 4WD light came on. I disengaged the switch, it went off. Turned it on and off again, it turned the light on and off. So I cautiously moved around the parking lot a bit, the 4WD is working like new. I'll. Be. Damned. It healed itself! I don't have any illusions, it probably won't stay fixed, but that is such a rare thing it still has me grinning, two hours later. If it just lasts until the weather gets nice, I'll be amazed, and very grateful. You don't expect that kind of luck, it's so rare, especially with mechanical things, but it sure made my day.

One problem with their system is if the 4x4 isn't used much they get moisture buildup in the motor and switch on the actuator. Bad connections. You can remove the actuator motor and clean and grease the connections inside and that helps. Or get in the habit of just turning the 4wd on every month or so.
If you can get it working try cycling it on and off a few times every tune you drive it fur the next little while. I find the more it's used the quicker it engages.
We bought another one...08 sequoia...and i bet the po never used it.
My 03 tundra and 04 sequoia go right in because i use it often.

[Weetabix]

Odahi-

Hm. I'm using your "won't use" tool for stripping and cutting. Maybe that's my problem. I have a good, connector-specific crimper. No problems with it. It's the cutting and stripping that give me a problem.

Ugh, but the price of that stripper for several times a year! I'll go looking for a more economical one that's not as crappy as what I'm using, though.

Thanks for the tip!