Retired Man Builds Own Yacht With All The Trimmings

[Denis]

My memory is that the trouble with aluminium boats is not so much the hulls, but attaching the rest of the rig and fittings in such a way as to avoid electrolytic corrosion. Al doesn't play well with brass, steel, or galvanised steel, and calls for rather expensive hi-tech "stainless" steel fittings, with lots of nylon washers or other non-conductive buffering.

If I wanted to do some serious blue-water sailing, I'd consider a properly fabricated steel hull. Reading about Chay Blyth's wrong-way solo circumnavigation in British Steel made me a fan. I'm sure modern materials and construction techniques could make something quite amazing, for someone with the right money.

[HTRN]

My memory is that the trouble with aluminium boats is not so much the hulls, but attaching the rest of the rig and fittings in such a way as to avoid electrolytic corrosion. Al doesn't play well with brass, steel, or galvanised steel, and calls for rather expensive hi-tech "stainless" steel fittings, with lots of nylon washers or other non-conductive buffering.

Pretty much - Al is pretty low on the galvanic chart - meaning it makes a good anode. Galvanized steel is worse, but not as bad as Magnesium, let alone beryllium. Surprisingly, Ti alloys are way up there, right with Monel and Nickel, among the highest of the engineering metals. Only thing better at that point is gold, and silver/Rhodium plated copper. A ship made from say, 18% Stainless would be more affordable, but offer somewhat less protection.


HTRN

[Netpackrat]

OTOH, if you built the thing in the first place, and it is a yacht of sufficient size, you could conceivably carry a small TIG, or even a MIG spool gun with you in case you need to make repairs in the middle of BFE. Speaking of the galvanic chart, even in contact with stainless, Al is the anode, and the Anode goes Away. This is one reason aircraft hardware is mostly carbon steel, cad plated. When the cad is gone, and the screws start to rust, replace the screws. Kits of stainless steel replacement fasteners are available for many light aircraft, and they are fairly popular with owners who get tired of rusty screws. Unfortunately, many of these owners find that instead, the aluminum under the screws starts to go away, and they have a potentially far more serious problem than just ugly fasteners.

[Denis]

... the Anode goes Away...

Eureka! Brilliant. Since my schooldays, I have never been able to remember which one gets eaten without without mentally describing the reaction to myself. Now I will never forget.

[HTRN]

OTOH, if you built the thing in the first place, and it is a yacht of sufficient size, you could conceivably carry a small TIG, or even a MIG spool gun with you in case you need to make repairs in the middle of BFE.

Not a bad ideal, especially the Spool gun - considering you can get(albiet pricey) 12v spoolguns. Another possibility is an alternator welder conversion, with a cheap spool gun adapted to use it. Tig would be great, but their power hogs - the icon of the type - Millers 250 Syncrowave, uses upwards of a 100 amps@220volts at full draw, and I doubt this ship would be able to supply that as it exists now. That means boosting the electrical system.

A steel ship, with a proper coating, and plenty of anodes, should do fine, and best of all, you can "fix" it with a regular stick welder or Oxy/Ac torch, which are common as dirt the world over. Even having a stick welder onboard is made simpler, as you don't have to have bottled gas(unlike MIG or TIG).


HTRN



HTRN