The Gun Counter

Well the hype says it has no more penetration than Hornady's .223 TAP ammo. Ballistic gelatin tests are mentioned. However I was wondering about penetration through sheet rock and real world use. Has anybody get relevant information on it?

Used .308 rifles can be found that are fairly easy to mount optical sights on.

No useful information, but physics being what it is, a 110 grain bullet should penetrate better than a lighter bullet. I don't know why anyone would want to use .308 ammo that light, unless you were varminting. It looks like they're getting over 3100 at the muzzle, but that's down to 2900 at 100 yards. I'd bet that the little bullet would come apart pretty explosively if it hit something.

Wellllll I live in an apartment complex. Across from my entry door there is a hallway and then another apartment. I don't want to surprise my neighbors. I've got JHP's for my 7.62 X 25 MM pistol so I hope they don't over penetrate. I hope that I have time to stand and do an angle down shot.
If I get a rifle it may be more affordable for me to get a .308 caliber as opposed to a .223. I expect a standard .308 JHP that unless I hit high center of mass an hit bone or do an angle down pelvis shot, it would probably go through my wall, across the hallway and through the other apartment.

Have you considered a shotgun? You can pick up a Mossberg 500 in 12 or 20 gauge for under 300 dollars at Walmart, pull the magazine plug, and load it with generic #4 buckshot pretty cheap. That's a pretty good load for a short range-to-contact situation.

And before you get crazy with lasers and lights, wrap a piece of one-inch reflective tape around the barrel, about one inch back from the muzzle. Makes it easy to keep track of where the loud end is pointed.

That tap round is not a really a frangible load... At 110grs the bullet has a higher SD than a 147 gr 9mm or a 55gr in .224. And either one of those will punch through multiple layers of gypsum board and several inches of soft, dry wood- HP or not. With double the mass of the .224, I would not count on anything short of thick brick or filled CMU block to stop it clean. Sometimes ballistic gel can stop H Vel rounds better than an equivalent thickness of soft wood, so the comparissons aren't really valid. I think it usually comes down to density, and gell is more dense than douglas fir and disipates energy much better...

Plus 1 on the no. 4 buck unless the problem has heavy leather over denim or kevlar. Just aim for the head or groin...

Speaking from personal experience, #4 buck from a 30" full choke 12 gauge at 37 paces will penetrate chest/ribs to lodge in offside ribs of a 100+ lb blacktail (and may chip an antler and break a rear leg at the same time).

blackeagle603 wrote:Speaking from personal experience, #4 buck from a 30" full choke 12 gauge at 37 paces will penetrate chest/ribs to lodge in offside ribs of a 100+ lb blacktail (and may chip an antler and break a rear leg at the same time).

Yeah, buckshot is not what you'd really consider a precision instrument at anything past spitting distance.

JAE wrote: Plus 1 on the no. 4 buck unless the problem has heavy leather over denim or kevlar. Just aim for the head or groin...

First Shirt wrote:Yeah, buckshot is not what you'd really consider a precision instrument at anything past spitting distance.

That's why you carry slugs in a side saddle or buttstock carrier, or load a slug as your 3rd or so round.

Have you considered an M79 with flechette ammo?

Nothing wrong with a shot gun. It is just I'm not a big fan of them.

You can make your own flecchete rounds for a shot gun, empty out the top wad and shot. Get some nails and hammer the heads flat. put some plaster of Paris on top of the sealing wad. Insert the flecchetes tail down in the plaster of Paris. put a wad on top to hold them in place. Let dry.