Consumer-grade food-sealers use plastic rolls. For the time duration you're likely contemplating, i.e. multiple years, plastic isn't any sort of impermeable.Precision wrote:So are you saying I need to be careful that the stripper clip edges don't poke holes or are you saying make sure my sealing machine does a good job or are you saying double down and throw an oxygen absorber in there too?
It's fine for six months in the freezer with chops or last season's deer. For keeping ammunition functional, not so much. It would work for the duration of a deployment in a pack, but not year in and year out without changing out the bags. Which is pointlessly spendy for more rolls, and a lot of extra work.
This is why anyone properly using HDPE plastic buckets for long-term food (or anything else) storage generally doubles down by sealing whatever inside a mylar bag first. The mylar provides a better vapor barrier than food sealer rolls (some of which will rather annoyingly self-delaminate), and the buckets are mainly vermin protection and easier mobility without the weight or expense of steel, etc.
Your best bet is to do as NPR does, using metal ammo cans for their exact intended purpose, along with some silica packs.
Oxygen absorbers are mainly for preserving food; whereas moisture is the main enemy of stored rounds, thus silica is the go-to choice there.
The shelf life of ammo stored essentially bone dry in a metal GI ammo can with a rubber gasket seal and a silica pack is easily something like 20+ years or more immaterial to the external climate as long as the cans haven't rusted through. The main factor at that point is probably the powder's ultimate shelf life itself, not the storage method. We were shooting military ammo from the mid-'60s in the late '80s that was in fine shape.
I'm sure the fact that case heads and primer pockets were lacquer sealed was no small factor either, something to consider if you're rolling your own for deep stocking purposes.