Re-rounding a bayonet muzzle ring

[JAG2955]

So I bought an 1891 Argentine bayonet for $20, and after I did that, I just had to have the rifle. I got one, which was an antique, so it's already arrived and is safely ensconced in my safe. Unfortunately, when I went to try on the bayonet, the muzzle ring is slightly out of round.

I figure that there are a few ways that I could do this, most likely with a tapered rod, but I wanted to see if anyone has any simpler ideas.

[DwightG]

You have the right idea. Ideally, get someone to turn a steel plug that would be a mild press fit in the ring (or a bit over barrel size since it's hard to determine a press fit on an ob-round) with a taper on the end that you could press through the ring.

[Darrell]

It's liable to spring back on ya a little bit when you remove it from the round/tapered rod. If you can get a snug fit you might try tapping it lightly with a small hammer around the periphery of the eye.

[JAG2955]

I tried putting it over a small rod and tapping the outside, which made it slightly larger, but progress was exceedingly slow, tracking progress on calipers.

I measured the difference between the outside of the muzzle and the inside of the ring. In the short direction, it was off by .008", so I decided that I'd just polish it out. I put a sanding drum on my dremel and polished it to fit, didn't take me much time at all, and not much metal removed at all. I do realize that somewhere, some purist hates me, and wants to bayonet me with his matching number/matching bayonet mint condition super-rare Long Lee-Enfield or something, but I hope that I haven't become a bubba. (Hey look, a dull hacksaw!)

[Darrell]

LOL Removing .008" is NOT polishing.

[JAG2955]

C'mon, I'm trying to make myself feel better....

[Catbird]

LOL Removing .008" is NOT polishing.

Maybe if you're talking concrete.

The way I would do it is to clamp the end of the rifle firmly in a padded vise. Then tap the ovaled ring back into a circle using a long, gradually tapered rod to gauge roundness and prevent overcorrection. Use a soft metal hammer such as brass or bronze if possible.

As far as preserving "historic" weapons, my rule of thumb is anything the soldier or his unit armorer would have done is fair game in restoration. This would include sanding, finishing, re-bluing, and replacing worn parts. As long as it's done with period appropriate restoration methods and materials, you are still being a respectful custodian of the piece as far as I'm concerned.