Knife WIP

ZeroGravitas · Post by **ZeroGravitas** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:36 pm

Mike, I haven't forged any full tang knives, every one has been a through tang design. It's kind of traditional, as most full-tang blade makers use the stock removal method not forging. I do like the way a through tang balances, and to go full circle; making a forged, Loveless style tapered full tang is on the to-do list.

Bob, I do make the sheath too.

Post by **308Mike** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:43 pm

How long did it take you to learn to make decent knives? How would someone go about getting started?

ZeroGravitas · Post by **ZeroGravitas** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:29 am

Mike, Knives are simple things and it's really easy to get half-way decent at knifemaking. I have no issues about putting handles on a pre-made blade, I still do it all the time, and think it's a great way to start. Doing the guard and handle is more work than making the blade.

I'd get 2 books: How to Make Knives by Loveless and Barney, and The $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard.
They have great how-to's and overviews. I don't think I could spend the time to cobble togehter the $50 version of the knife shop, but the concepts are all there. I heat treat a lot like Goddard does. If you're going to make blades, I think the $125 Sears 2" x 42" belt grinder is a great starter - the main negative is it runs FAST, so keeping the work cool is key, but a knifemaker's belt grinder needs another 0 in the price. Belts at McMaster-Carr. I use and recommend a $75 grinding jig from knifemaker Fred Rowe. http://bubblejig.com/ Leather work is easy and the tools aren't expensive - prolly why so many hippies made belts and stuff.

Folks I buy stuff from:
Texas Knifemakers Supply (they have a heat-treat service too - HT'ing stainless isn't an at-home job)
Jantz Supply
Knifekits.com

I think forging is a lot of fun, but it's easy to spend $500 on a forge and an anvil.

SeekHer · Post by **SeekHer** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 7:54 pm

Nice job, your son should appreciate it!

blackeagle603 · Post by **blackeagle603** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:38 pm

ZG,
Maybe look at getting a variable speed control in your belt grinder power loop?

Lokidude · Post by **Lokidude** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:52 am

I'll second knifekits.com. Fast shipping, decent prices, and very good quality blades. I made a pair of fixed blades for Christmas this year, and have another fixed blade and a pair of folders on the bench.

DwightG · Post by **DwightG** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:42 am

What's your heat treating procedure? I've got some new 1/4 x 2 5160 flat bar I bought years ago left over from a job. Might be fun to try my hand at this some day.

Nice looking work BTW.

ZeroGravitas · Post by **ZeroGravitas** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:57 am

Dwight - HT procedure:
Normalize to reduce stresses by heating to non-magnetic (= critical temp = ~1450 degrees) and let air cool
Harden by heating to critical temp, then edge first into a pre heated oil bath (~100 degrees)
Temper in a toaster oven 425 degrees for 30 minutes then air cool

DwightG · Post by **DwightG** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:23 am

Thanks, ZG. That's a lower tempering temperature than I would have guessed. Probably holds an edge pretty well. How are they for toughness (curious because of my occasional proclivity for confusing my knife for a crow bar). Have you ever had one Rockwell hardness tested?

Are you heating it in a forge?

Post by **Combat Controller** » Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:44 am

I have a Rockwell tester at my place in LA. If you ever want something tested and can part with it for a couple of weeks (shipping) I can test it for you. I also have industrial microscopes, x-ray diffraction equipment and let's not forget my cryo machines....

The Gun Counter

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