The Gun Counter

I got a new 10/22 TD, new to owning a gun. What are some advice and procedures to gun cleaning, and what materials would I need?

It's a .22, you don't clean it until it stops running!

bubblewhip wrote:I got a new 10/22 TD, new to owning a gun. What are some advice and procedures to gun cleaning, and what materials would I need?

GRATS!!!

I got my 1st 10/22 yesterday! I will show you mine if you show me yours!

.22lr cleaning:

1. Disassemble gun BEFORE YOU FIRE IT for the first time!!!! Do a complete check of components, especially the barrel. 22lr is extremely PISS POOR in quality, and can produce weak loads. If your bore is partially obstructed, a squib load might get stuck, and a second bullet might detonate it (the least likely of scenarios, but it is too easy to avoid to ignore) Check the extractor, ejector, and the op-rod/spring. You are checking for bends, burrs, spring-tension. (BMW-CLS) Make sure firing pin RETRACTS INTO THE BOLT. (otherwise its an open-bolt full auto, not as fun as it sounds)

2. OILING: .22lr weapons are meant to be run dry. Bone dry. Oil ONLY before storing, and wipe dry before firing. 22lr is an absolutely filthy cartridge, and it will spew unburned powder/still burning powder all over the inside of the action. THIS IS FINE and normal. It sticks to oil, and turns that slick lubricant into a paste that has the consistency of clay.

3. CLEANING: Hoppe's "9" is a great great thing. Clean it with that. Tools you will need:

A. BORE SNAKE (BEST way to clean the bore without disassembly)
B. A wire PULL STYLE bore patch puller thingy (scientific term) Do NOT use cleaning rods. They will damage your barrel. (small diameter barrel + filthy ammo = the rod scraping all that filth around)
C. Bore brush (only need it rarely, but its a good idea to use it after 500+ round day)
D. Tooth brush (medium-firm)
E. Small diameter (1.5 or 2) allen wrench (to use as a pick)
F. Patches, both .22 cal, and .308 the big patches are to rub things down with, NOT for sticking down the bore.

4. COVER your scope during cleaning. (rubber band and rubber glove works well)

5. How to clean a .22 rifle

Clear weapon, (Safety, magazine, chamber, set safety to takedown position) disassemble according to instructions. Remove the barrel, and the trigger mechanism. The trigger mechanism will be filthy, you will need pressurized cleaner to really get it smooth. Inspect your ejector (that floppy metal thing) Once all the gunk is out of the trigger area, hose it down with WD40 and canned air. Set aside to dry. (its good once it stops sounding like a bag of chips being stepped on) Next, move onto the bolt. BE CAREFUL with the firing pin hole. DO NOT push crap into it. The bolt face will be filthy. Soak the whole thing in Hoppe's, by wiping it with a VERY wet patch. Let it sit a minute. Dry off with a paper towel (paper towels wick oils up) and scrub with toothbrush where necessary. Now look at the bolt face: use the thin allen wrench, a thumbtack, or a toothpick to carve away that ring of carbon. Use the allen wrench to pick out the gunk under the extractor. MAKE SURE the firing pin moves freely. Finally, clean out the guiderod track. Set bolt aside. Wipe off guiderod with a hoppe's soaked patch, and wipe with a paper towel. MAKE SURE you run a patch through the spring. (do NOT pull on spring, you can ruin it) Now use a patch with Hoppe's on it to clean out inside of metal receiver. Wet patch, dry patch, repeat till clean.

Finally, the barrel:

Barrel "face": Soak with a hoppe's patch for a min or 2 to loosen the crud. Brush with toothbrush. Wipe with a fresh wet patch, then dry off with a dry patch.
BORE: Soak front inch of boresnake with hoppe's, run from chamber to muzzle. Do this twice. Next, run a soaked patch from chamber to muzzle, followed by 2 dry patches. Repeat 1 wet and 2 dry till the dry ones come out clean. IF the barrel is FILTHY, use the copper brush before the bore snake.

Make sure workings are dry (if you plan on using it soon) or lightly oiled (if storing rifle)
Reassemble rifle.

Function check: Load a snap cap or a dummy round (make your own: .22mag casing, filed down to .22lr WITH BULLET dimensions, crimped to a point) into a magazine. Load magazine with the dummy round, make sure it feeds. put weapon on safe, pull trigger (nothing should happen) put on fire (hammer should fall) Yank back on charging handle HARD. The dummy round should eject, and should show a solid pin-strike.

You can use a spent .22lr casing for this, but it will not feed from the magazine.

NOTE * * * * * SOME .22lr rounds will still have enough primer left after it fires to scare the piss out of ya

GUN Pr0n

May I suggest Captain Wheelgun's mod to the new 10-22 owners? Works like a champ with mine.

Thanks a lot Yogimus.

Here's the reply.



(That trigger lock is indestructible but F**king sucks. It scratches up the gun. I hate our Canadian government)

Now THAT is SWEET!!

308Mike wrote:Now THAT is SWEET!!

It really is! I was going to get that model as well, but I am too much of a MOD-whore the lock-up design on that rifle is absolutely glorious.

rightisright wrote:It's a .22, you don't clean it until it stops running!

There is some truth in this school of thought--some don't clean their .22s until they lose accuracy or the gun stops working. Me, I just occasionally boresnake them and wash out the action.

One note of caution--avoid brake cleaner if you've got plastic parts.

If I might add one thought regarding cleaning. If you have access to an air compressor it can do wonders for blowing gunk and oil out of parts and helps in getting them dry. I learned the hard way to hang onto stuff when doing this so as to not launch them across the room.